Vienna for Christmas Eve

What a romantic idea- snow on the ground, Christmas lights sparkling against the whiteness, old Bavarian hotel with a steep pitched roof, dripping icicles, sleigh bells in the distance.

None of that happened , as the snow had not arrived, but it was still wonderful!
Our room at the Vienna Danube Hilton Hotel looked over the Danube River gliding past on its way from the Black Forest, east to the Black Sea- so impressive. No wonder the most popular tune in Austria is the 'Blue Danube Waltz'.
The Christmas Eve treat was a concert by the Salonorchester Alt Vien, at the Kursalon Vien, followed by dinner at the restaurant Johann.

I could imagine the The Kursalon when it was built in 1865 in Italian renaissance style, where people came to drink the curative waters, then stay on for dances and promenades concerts. It was here that Johann Strauss became a musical sensation with his innovative waltzes.

In the richly decorated salon today, the Salon orchestra has developed a highly enjoyable program of Viennese music. We heard Voices of Spring waltz, Roses from the South, Rondo alla turca, Overture to the Marriage of Figaro and , of course, the Blue Danube waltz. Properly called, On the beautiful Blue Danube', it was originally composed for male choir and military band - that must be quite a different sound from the violins and piano versionthat we heard.
It was beautifully presented by an orchestra who seemed to be enjoying themselves immensely. Two ballet dancers leapt and pirouetted, two opera singers charmed us with arias, and the audience even got to clap along during the Colonel Radetsky march. Great fun.

Organised by Sound of Vienna, these excellent concerts are for local Viennese who want to show their visitors a slice of Vienna, for companies wishing to offer clients an exclusive musical evening, and for tour operators to offer excellent music, dance and opera. www.soundofvienna.at

During the interval we sipped dry Prosecco, and after the concert there was an elegant meal in the downstairs restaurant.

In Central Europe, it is the custom to celebrate Christmas on 24 December, with the family gathering ,and the special meal. Everyone is at home with families that day- we saw this for ourselves on the motorway into Vienna- it was virtually deserted. Interestingly, there are no presents. They are given much earlier, on 6 December, St Nicholas day, so there is no space for Santa around Christmas at all. Infact, I saw only two Santas the whole time. Instead there are lots of nativity scenes, of all shapes and sizes. Many of the shops put on beautiful animated nativity scenes,and there are throngs of children and families standing and gazing at these illuminated spectacles.

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