Monday, January 12, 2009

Dresden and the first snowfall





The train from Munich took us north to Dresden where our friend Uta met us, holding out two red roses in greeting. She had borrowed her mother’s car, and her brother’s apartment for our stay.
With the car she drove us into nearby Saxony Switzerland, called thus for the huge mountain peaks, deep river valleys, and most impressively the high rocky pinnacles. Uta pointed out a book chained to the top of one of the vertiginous and vertical rocks, which bears her name, and that of other brave climbers- not ours! The wind bringing the snow drove us into the café, for thick hot chocolate and German cakes- perfect on a cold day.
Snow began to fall late afternoon , and fell and fell. In such a cold climate it is surprising that everyone parks their cars outside, on the street where ever there is a place, and we became quite nonchalant about stomping through deep snow to try to identify a car covered in snow.

The old city has been rebuilt, so it is really a new city. Over the river is the official NeueStadt, or new city, much older than the 'new city'. Here is a delightful colourful quarter, with many artists and crafts people selling thier wares, and living in creatively painted buildings. I loved this drain pipe arrangement.
Dresden is the city where, on 13 February 1945, the combined USA and British air forces bombed the city centre and surrounding districts, Some 35,000 people died in that air raid alone. We walked around the beautiful cobble stoned city centre which has been so faithfully rebuilt. Our friend’s parents were among the hundreds who helped clean bricks as part of the reconstruction.
“Whoever has forgotten how to cry, learns it again with the destruction of Dresden.“ (Gerhart Hauptmann)
We walked round the city in a sombre mood, mindful of the conflicted history of the countries we have visited over these three months.
To us coming from 'the new world', we are acutely aware of the layers of history beneath our feet.It is impossible to look at everything around us, old and new, without 'reading between the lines', imagining what was there 50 years ago, or 250, or 1000, or back before the common era. Museums and historical displays add to this knowledge, while still allowing us to enjoy and appreciate what is before our eyes. Having guides like our friends Uta and Karola made our time in East Germany added another dimension to our rich experience.

No comments:

Post a Comment