We left Santiago reluctantly, captivated by its charm, but realising we needed to move on. A quick stop at Ourense for breakfast and for the promised hot pools, but nothing opened before 11.00am, so we hit the toll road for a very easy trip south east towards Madrid. The road travelled through hills and valleys, the fabled rocky sierras, then smoothed out into high cold plains as we neared the capital.
Just off the motorway was Avila, where Teresa became famous in the 13th century for reforming the Carmelites and writing her books on mystic spirituality. She collaborated with John of the Cross whose best known work is The Dark Night of the Soul. I was very intrigued to read that one of her fingers was on display, along with a fragment of her cloak, her walking stick, and some of Johns bones, so had to go in search of it. They were all faithfully displayed in a glass case and I had a strange jolt of reality- these two were real people, real bones and flesh, and here was some evidence (I guess). The guide book says that Franco had the finger of Teresa, complete with large ring, beside his bed during his years as dictator of Spain- not sure of the significance of that!
The museum and reliquery are on the site of one of her many extensive and busy convents, all within the walls of beautiful Avila, so well preserved it is another UNESCO world Heritage Site.
We would loved to have lingered, but the wind was coming off the snow on the surrounding hills, proving the claim that Avila is the coldest place in Spain.
We drove off to our airport hotel, in readiness to leave this fascinating country, with a promise to return, and fly east to Rome.
Just off the motorway was Avila, where Teresa became famous in the 13th century for reforming the Carmelites and writing her books on mystic spirituality. She collaborated with John of the Cross whose best known work is The Dark Night of the Soul. I was very intrigued to read that one of her fingers was on display, along with a fragment of her cloak, her walking stick, and some of Johns bones, so had to go in search of it. They were all faithfully displayed in a glass case and I had a strange jolt of reality- these two were real people, real bones and flesh, and here was some evidence (I guess). The guide book says that Franco had the finger of Teresa, complete with large ring, beside his bed during his years as dictator of Spain- not sure of the significance of that!
The museum and reliquery are on the site of one of her many extensive and busy convents, all within the walls of beautiful Avila, so well preserved it is another UNESCO world Heritage Site.
We would loved to have lingered, but the wind was coming off the snow on the surrounding hills, proving the claim that Avila is the coldest place in Spain.
We drove off to our airport hotel, in readiness to leave this fascinating country, with a promise to return, and fly east to Rome.
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